Musician's passionate journey

120507095254 sarah chang green dress 2 horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeySarah Chang is cited among the best violinists performing in the world today. Since her debut with the New York Philharmonic at the age of eight, she has appeared across the music capitals of Asia, Europe and America.
120504123841 sarah chang toddler vertical gallery Musician's passionate journey

Now 31 years old, Chang picked up the violin when she was just four, having already grown tired of the household piano. Quickly recognized as a child prodigy, Chang had signed to EMI Classics before she’d even reached double digits.

120504124044 sarah chang awards vertical gallery Musician's passionate journey

Still in her early 20s, Chang is seen here clutching her priceless 17th-century “Guarneri del Gesu” violin, given to her as a present by the late Ukrainian violinist and conductor Isaac Stern, who had a reputation for discovering new talent.

120504124340 buenos aires tango mural sarah chang horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyA life dedicated to the formality of classical music is very different from a life led in the frenetic city of Buenos Aires — where racy murals decorate the streets and the sound of tango music echoes in the air. But this is where Chang had chosen to fly for her Fusion Journey.
120504124211 sarah chang orquesta t pica andariega horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyThere she met with local ensemble “Orquesta Tipica Andariega” (pictured), a band steeped in the traditions of tango. Together they would create a new piece of music inspired by this meeting of cultures.
120504124551 sarah chang dance rehearsals horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyBut first Chang, who confesses to be the owner of “two left feet,” would take a lesson in the other side of tango — dance. Over the course of her practice, she discovered that the dance moves have an “intimate relationship with the music,” which she would later draw on to enhance her musical performance.
120504124652 sarah chang street club horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyOut of her customary ball gown, Chang donned an outfit more befitting of a small local tango club, hidden along a narrow backstreet in Buenos Aires.
120504124918 sarah chang final performance horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyHere, accompanied by “Orquesta Tipica Andariega,” she performed a tango standard, incorporating a solo violinist twist adapted especially for the fusion. Looking back, she says she was touched by the intimacy between the performers and the audience — an experience she is unfamiliar with in the world’s giant concert halls.
120504124431 sarah chang buenos aires dancers horizontal gallery Musician's passionate journeyNow, she says she tries to retain that Buenos Aires-style intimacy wherever she plays. “I try to connect with every single last person in the balcony on an emotional and personal level.”
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Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires
Tango: From Boston to Buenos Aires

Readers' travel tips: Coastal Spain

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 Readers' travel tips: Coastal Spain

Find a deserted beach, hop on a narrow-gauge railway to explore Spain‘s rugged northern coastline or seek out a quiet fishing village in Lanzarote – Been there readers offer their tips on the best of the Spanish coast

Add a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera

WINNING TIP: Feve coastal train, northern Spain

This narrow-gauge service runs along the rugged northern coast from Bilbao through Santander and Oviedo to León. It plunges through tunnels and stops at lots of places. It is easy to hop on and off, there’s no need to book, you can take your bike and it is cheap – especially if you are over 60. You can also do the tourist thing and go on the Transcantábrico line, which offers luxury seven-day trips, sleeping aboard the train.
feve.es, eltranscantabricogranlujo.com/en
maggieoc

Asturias

Arenal De Moris
Most of the time this campsite is so peaceful you can hear the sea from a mile away. It’s a short walk from the village, which has some of the most wonderful fresh seafood I’ve ever eaten. Sitting on the top of the cliff looking down at the beach, I’m constantly reminded why I love it here.
arenaldemoris.com, from €15.20 for a tent and two adults
KaySmythe

Basque country

San Sebastián
On Bahía de La Concha (Shell Bay) the Comb of the Wind, the jaw-dropping iron sculptures of Eduardo Chillida, cast huge, bold shapes from the water’s edge. Harbourside restaurants abound, serving an enticing array of pintxos (Basque tapas) including tasty sardines washed down with sidra. For a truly memorable experience, travel 10 minutes west to Zarautz, to the Karlos Arguiñano (hotelka.es, doubles from £110), a fabulous beach restaurant with rooms.
sansebastianturismo.com
PWestwell

Hotel Atalya, Mundaka
At the charming Hotel Atalaya in Mundaka, you can open the shutters, step onto your balcony and people-watch over the harbour. If you prefer sand, there’s a beach at nearby Lekeitio where happy dogs lift their legs on the “no dogs” sign. Place names are a series of randomly jammed typewriter keys: try saying – and definitely visiting – Gaztelugatxe, a tiny island with a narrow winding causeway, twinkling at night with fairy lights. For day trips there’s Guernica, immortalised by Picasso, with its Junta headquarters museum where I cricked my neck admiring the stained glass ceilings; and my favourite, the eerie but entrancing painted forest at Oma.
+34 946 177 000, atalayahotel.es, doubles from €108
CornishJay

Canary Islands

Caleta de Famara, Lanzarote
This fishing village on the north-west coast of the island is everything the touristy south coast isn’t. It has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach on Lanzarote, with a stunning backdrop of plunging cliffs. The village itself has just a few small restaurants. Restaurante Sol (restaurantesolfamara.com) doesn’t look much from the outside, but the fresh fish is delightful so don’t be deceived by its exterior.
tinyurl.com/caletade
SuziWrites

Valencia

Ebro Delta natural park
This is a secluded peninsula of lagoons, rice fields and beaches, packed with birds – it’s very tranquil, with a wonderful sense of space. Being a delta, the area is flat and perfect for cyclists. Many people visit in spring and autumn for the bird migrations, but there are plenty of resident birds to see in summer and winter too.
deltaebro.com/en/the-ebro-delta.htm
Liana

Andalucía

Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cadiz
The sleepy seaside town, from where Columbus sailed on his second and fourth voyages, comes to life in the summer. There’s horse racing on the sands, and trips across the Guadalquivir river to seek the elusive Iberian lynx in the Coto Doñana national park. And you can find the most fabulous fish dishes at the quayside restaurants, washing them down with manzanilla.
sanlucar-de-barrameda.com
WendyAbb

Cabo de Gata natural park, Almería
The rugged volcanic rock formations that provide the backdrop to this unspoilt and rural coastal region are reason enough to explore. It’s a Unesco biosphere reserve and is dotted with wild beaches and small fishing villages, with simple restaurants untainted by mass tourism. The more adventurous could explore some of the walks or dive sites, though soaking up the park’s simple beauty is pleasure enough.
degata.com/eng
snootygirl

Catalonia

Camí de Ronda coastal path
This route on the Costa Brava, north of Barcelona, stretches from Blanes up to France. Pine trees cling to the cliffs, tiny wild coves lead into still tinier and wilder inlets before opening out into miles of beach. You will never be far from refreshment, whether it’s a beachside cafe for a snack, an atmospheric fishing village for lunch (Sa Tuna, Tamariu and Sa Riera) or a historic town (Begur and Pals).
en.costabrava.org
RRogers

Bay of Roses
There’s a great five-day coastal walk you can take from Escala to Palau-Saverdera, which passes through Cadaqués. Salvador Dalí had a holiday home at nearby Port Lligat, which you can visit, and there are sea-view bars and restaurants to while away the evenings. It’s not overrun with tourists and manages to hang on to its quaint “villagey” feel. We stayed at the Dalí-themed Hotel La Residencia (laresidencia.net/lrdc/ang).
Irondownsouth

Cap Creus national park
This national park has some amazing beaches on its southern side and along its northern coast. There are very few roads but plenty of trails to access these beaches. The masses tend to stay on the beaches around Roses, as you will need to walk for about 30 minutes to get to the first if you come by car. The ones on the north coast are difficult to get to without a boat.
en.costabrava.org
MASMINGOU

Temps de Flors exhibition in spring, Girona
This is an exhibition of flowers in several places in the historical centre of Girona. The exhibition consists of decorati
ng patios and rooms with flower arrangements – some very modern! It takes place every May, in the old Jewish quarter, near the cathedral.
gironatempsdeflors.net
JosephBanks

Sant Antoni de Calonge
This is a small-size, genuinely Catalan family resort where you can lose track of time. Its long sandy, spotlessly clean beach will delight kids of all ages. When you’ve had enough of lying on a towel, walk the coastal path between the medieval castle and the nearby town of Palamós, taking in ever-changing sea views, the beautiful palm-lined promenade where the locals take in the sea breeze and watch the world go by. Stop by a beach shack for a cool beer and pan con tomate (toasted bread rubbed with a fresh tomato), or try one of the many family-run restaurants along the promenade that offer freshly cooked Catalan dishes at affordable prices. Then head for Girona and its medieval Jewish quarter or the amazing Greco-Roman site at Empúries, big enough to rival Pompeii.
For accommodation, see holiday-rentals.co.uk
Cloggs

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Hebden Bridge: West Yorkshire's cool and quirky corner

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 Hebden Bridge: West Yorkshire's cool and quirky corner

How did Hebden Bridge shed its industrial past to become a town of quirky shops and arty cafes? A local lad charts its transformation

The best way to arrive in Hebden Bridge, at the western edge of the Pennines, is by train. The station is still astonishingly similar to a print I have from the 1840s, when the Manchester-Leeds line opened. The Victorian lettering is unchanged. Signs say “Lamp Room” and “Parcels Office”. Volunteers supply fresh flowers. The whole place looks as polished as if a period-drama crew was at work.

The canal runs just below the railway line. Walk along it and you pass a phalanx of narrowboats with fancy names: Occam’s Razor, Orinoco, Green Man. Once a working-class mill town, Hebden Bridge is now home to a large number of ultra-literate graduates.

The town is one long tale of the unexpected. Comparable towns remain mired in post-industrial dereliction, but Hebden Bridge and its surrounding villages were rescued by a potent alliance. Pioneering conservationists preserved the town’s characteristic tall Victorian terrace houses, while arts-minded hippyish squatters were attracted by (then) dirt-cheap or even empty property. Almost every shop in Hebden Bridge is independent. The many – perhaps too many – cafes do not include a single Starbucks or Costa.

Ted Hughes was born nearby in Mytholmroyd. His father ran a tobacconist’s next to Hebden Bridge‘s smithy, which is now Pennine Provisions, as fancy a grocer as you’ll find. Cornish sea salt. Japanese wakame. Pexommier, a camembert-style cheese made with organic milk from up the road in Todmorden.

Hebden Bridge was an obscure little town when I grew up there. In a new book, I chronicle that past, but also the town’s current tendency to attract labels like “fourth-funkiest place on the planet” or “lesbian capital of Britain”. Instead of manufacturing textiles, Hebden Bridge now manufactures lifestyles.

Traditionally, Hebden Bridge adhered to the gospel of hard work. Whatever a man’s faults, all was forgiven if you could say, “Ah, but he were a right worker.” So there was hostility to the hippies who turned up in the 1970s and 1980s with a less militant work ethic. Yet these “offcomers” started hewing a new future for Hebden Bridge. The culture of spindle, loom and treadle had died. Life was seeping out of the town. A less inward-looking ethos reinvigorated it.

Want a wedding cake sculpted from soap? Try the Yorkshire Soap Company’s splendid shop (theyorkshiresoapcompany.co.uk) on Market Street. The Trades Club (thetradesclub.com) on Holme Street is a not-for-profit music venue with a 190 capacity but attracts big names – Patti Smith’s September gig is sold out, but there’s plenty else on over the summer. Then there’s the Handmade Parade on 23 June (handmadeparade.co.uk), with stilt walkers, giant puppets and craft workshops, and an annual Arts Festival (30 June-8 July, hbaf.co.uk).

But the best way to sample the spirit of the place is to get out into the hills. Cross the 500-year-old packhorse bridge that gives the town its name and brace yourself for the precipitous climb up a lane to Heptonstall. This small village was the handloom weavers’ capital, before the railhead tugged all industry down into the valley bottom.

Above its high terraces of Victorian houses, scraps of fields once farmed for a meagre living are now more likely to hold leisure ponies. Above them is flattish moorland of heather and bilberry. In Heptonstall is a strange octagonal chapel where John Wesley preached, and behind the local Anglican church is the grave of Ted Hughes‘s first wife, Sylvia Plath.

Buses will ferry you to the start-points of a multitude of walks. Head north to Hardcastle Crags and on to the Packhorse Inn (on the Pennine Way, thepackhorse.org), which is always known as “the ridge”. Or walk up from Mytholmroyd to a deserted hollow called Bell Hole where, in the 18th century, coiners carried out their illegal trade. If your muscles will take it, carry on across the moor to a soaring obelisk called Stoodley Pike, built in local millstone grit.

Does geology shape character? It’s a question to muse on as you tramp around. There are lanes and paths in almost every direction. The hilltops have the scent of liberty. Hebden Bridge, present and past, has never been a place for knuckling under.

Eat pizza at cosy family-run Il Mulino (01422 845986, ilmulino.co.uk), or go more alternative at Mooch (24 Market St) a cafe-bar with vegan breakfasts, tapas and snacks. Ted’s House, Ted Hughes’s childhood home a mile away in Mytholmroyd, can be rented from £180 for three nights (01228 406701, yorkshire-cottages.info). In town, Holme House B&B (01422 847588, holmehousehebdenbridge.co.uk) has doubles from £77.50 and locally sourced goodies for breakfast. More information from hebdenbridge.co.uk

Paul Barker’s book, Hebden Bridge: A Sense of Belonging, is published on 10 May (Frances Lincoln, £16.99, tinyurl.com/hebdenbarker)

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Photos highlight climate change

120425085909 darren bull roger moukarzel profile lapland horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeLebanese photographer Roger Moukarzel swapped his warm studio in Beirut for the frozen mountains of Lulea in northern Sweden. He was here to create a series of striking images that would highlight the cause and effect of climate change.
120425090158 carl johan utsi lapland horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeLulea is part of the area commonly known as Lapland, a reindeer heartland and home, of course, to Santa Clause’s legendary workshop.
120425090938 carl johan utsi lapland life horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changepeople, whose ancestral lands spread across Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia.” border=”0″ height=”360″ class=”c7″ width=”640″ />The reindeer share the region with the Sami, Europe’s northernmost officially indigenous people, whose ancestral lands spread across Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia.
120425090508 carl johan utsi reindeer lapland horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeLulea’s subarctic climate, with mild summers and long, cold and snowy winters, make it an ideal habitat for reindeer. However, in recent years, locals have said that temperatures have been rising appreciably and, in 2010, a herd of more than 300 reindeer was reportedly lost when the ice cover of a frozen lake broke beneath their hoofs.
120425090024 darren bull roger moukarzel lapland 2 horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeMoukarzel takes a picture of a local Sami girl, against the dark, ethereal backdrop of the Lulea forest.
120425085726 roger moukarzel lapland 2 horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeDressed in their rich and colourful traditional clothing, Moukarzel positioned his subjects against the intentionally incongruous image of a large, smoke-chugging factory.
120425085000 roger moukarzel lapland vertical gallery Photos highlight climate change

“Many of the people that are suffering the effects of climate change have not done anything to contribute to it, and areas that are being destroyed are often far away from where the pollution is made,” he said. “The idea with the images is to bring these two realities closer together.”

120425085822 roger moukarzel lapland 3 horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeAccording to Moukarzel, this series of images will be the beginning of many. The 45-year-old photographer plans to travel across all five continents, exploring this theme among different climates and cultures.
120425093120 roger moukarzel lebanon war horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeIt will certainly not his first big adventure. At just 15, Moukarzel started his career with moving, sometimes haunting pictures of the Lebanese civil war.
120425093008 roger moukarzel war lebanon horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeHe says he has always been primarily interested in taking pictures of people and “capturing moments of humanity” — such as this striking exchange from 1978 between a Lebanese soldier and a woman in war-torn Beirut.
120425091303 roger moukarzel fashion horizontal gallery Photos highlight climate changeAfter 15 years as a front-line photojournalist for news agencies Sygma and Reuters, Moukarzel hung up his hard hat in favor of high fashion, as he embarked on a new career in the world of fashion photography.
120425092436 roger moukarzel vertical gallery Photos highlight climate changepeople‘s preconceptions through his photography. This image was part of a series called "Turning Disabilities to Abilities." ” border=”0″ height=”360″ class=”c7″ width=”270″ />

But Moukarzel retains his desire to challenge people‘s preconceptions through his photography. This image was part of a series called “Turning Disabilities to Abilities.”

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10 of the best walks in and around the North York Moors

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 10 of the best walks in and around the North York Moors

Heather-clad ridges, lush valleys, pretty villages, rugged coastline … the North York Moors is a stunning place to walk. Local expert Jo Foster of the National Trust chooses her top 10

10 of the best walks in the Yorkshire Dales
As featured in our North Yorkshire holiday guide

Roseberry Topping

Distance 2 miles
Start Newton-under-Roseberry, grid ref NZ570128
National Trust downloadable route and map
Though a relatively short walk, the ascent to Cleveland’s most famous hill can be a challenge. It is a fascinating place to explore for its human and geological history, as well as its abundant wildlife. But it’s the views from the top that will give you most reward for your efforts; the coastline, across the North York Moors and down onto industrial Teesside – a rich and varied landscape that’s unveiled before you.

Roseberry Topping woodland wildlife

Distance 3 miles
Start Newton-under-Roseberry car park
National Trust downloadable route and map
While most visitors to Roseberry Topping head straight for the hill, there’s plenty to see in the woods too. Newton Woods, just below it, is a wonderful place to walk and will take you to some of the best wildlife spotting opportunities. A haven for birds, look out for blue tits during April and May bringing caterpillars back for their chicks or listen out for the call of the green woodpecker; it’s quite distinctive, sounding like hoarse laughter. And of course, in late spring Newton Woods is an amazing place to see carpets of bluebells as the ground is awash with colour.

Boggle Hole to Robin Hood’s Bay

Distance 3 miles
Start Station car park, Robin Hood’s Bay, grid ref NZ950054
Downloadable route and map
Take a walk along the Yorkshire coastline from Boggle Hole to Robin Hood’s Bay – across the clifftops or the beach (at low tide only) and then return along the old railway back to your starting point. If the tide is low enough to walk the beach, take some time to look for fossils or in the rock pools.

Ravenscar loop

Distance 1½ miles
Start National Trust Coastal Centre, Ravenscar
National Trust downloadable route and map
Soak up the views as you discover Ravenscar, past and present, on this short walk. The little village boasts stunning views of the Yorkshire coastline across to Robin Hood’s Bay. On this circular walk, you’ll take in the old peak alum works but also have the option to find a wealth of flora and fauna – from bluebells in late spring to butterflies in summer. Keep an eye out for adders and damselflies too.

Kilburn Woods

Distance 3 miles
Start Station car park, Robin Hood’s Bay, grid ref NZ950054
Downloadable route and map
Take a walk from the top of Sutton Bank, with panoramic views across to Kilburn Woods. The woodland walk will take you along the old thieves’ highway – once a quick getaway for highway robbers from the nearby drovers and stagecoach roads. You’ll also walk past the white horse, which isn’t as old as other landmarks across the country – it dates back to 1857.

Nettle Dale and the Hambleton Hills

Distance 9 miles
Start Sutton Bank National Park Centre, grid ref SE 516830
Downloadable route and map
Much of the North York Moors is farmland, with dry-stone walls, hedges and open moorland marking out the landscape. Look closely at the dry-stone walls and you may be able to spot fossil shells in amongst the stones. This walk will take you along footpaths and country lanes – in the summer, look out for wildflowers, buzzing bees and buttlerflies.

Rievaulx Terrace

Distance 1½ miles
Start Rievaulx Terrace car park, grid ref 100:SE579848
Click here for the Rievaulx Terrace website
Rievaulx Terrace is perfect for a gentle walk. These 18th-century landscape gardens were created for unwinding, relaxing and for spending time with others. In Ryedale, boasting views across the Hambleton Hills and down to Rievaulx Abbey, a walk along the Terrace will give you unrivalled views of the surrounding countryside and, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of the wildlife that makes this Georgian landscape its home.

Nunnington to Rievaulx

Distance 8 miles (2½ hours). Take the circular route, for a 16-mile, five-hour walk
Start Nunnington Hall, YO62 5UY
Further information on walks in the area
In the heart of Ryedale, not far from Helmsley, is the village of Nunnington. The hall, owned by the National Trust is just one reason to find your way to this part of Yorkshire, but be sure to explore the village and surrounding area a little wider too. Rievaulx Terrace is just eight miles away and itself boasts unrivalled views of the Hambleton Hills and Rievaulx Abbey.

Hutton-le-Hole to Lingmoor

Distance 3.6 miles
Start Hutton-le-Hole car park, grid ref SE 705903
Downloadable route and map
Hutton-le-Hole sits within the North York Moors national park and, according to their walking guide, in Victorian England it was described as “an ill-planned and untidy” village. Thankfully, times and opinions have changed and it now recognised as one of Britain’s most beautiful and picturesque. A circular walk towards Spaunton will help you escape into the national park and across fields and country tracks.

Coast to Coast

Start St Bee’s, Cumbria
Finish Robin Hood’s Bay
Total distance 190 miles
Walk website
If you’re looking for more of a walking challenge, then there are many national routes that travel across North Yorkshire, including the Pennine Way. The Coast to Coast trail takes you right across the country, covering 190 miles, from St Bee’s in Cumbria in the west to Robin Hood’s Bay in the east, taking three national parks – the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors. You can choose to do the whole route over 14 days or select sections for shorter day-long walks.

Know any great walks in the area? Add your recommendation in the comments below

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Q1 Tourist Arrivals to Indonesia up 11.01%,Bandung records highest growth

In the latest development, the Central Bureau of Statistics announced that International tourist arrivals to Indonesia during the first quarter this year grew by 11.01% registering 1.9 million visitors compared to 1.7 million in the same period last year. While nation-wide, the month of March delivered a 10.12% increase compared to the same month last year. Among the main entry ports, the airport of Bandung in West Java recorded highest growth at 22.74% to 33,368 passsengers, up from 27,187 during the first three months last year. In the same period, the island of Bali saw an increase of 11.35%.

 

Top tourist markets to Indonesia are Singapore, Malaysia, Australia and China, with the Chinese market growing by 26.6%. On the other hand, in Q1 the number of tourists from Taiwan declined (by -7.09%) and from the Netherlands (– 7.7%). While number of tourists from Japan, which has been sliding for the past years has seen positive growth of 3.94%.

(Source: statistics of www.parekraf.go.id)

photo courtesy : indonesia.travel

 

Indian master chef in Copenhagen

120416122932 profile sanjeev kapoor horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenSanjeev Kapoor took up the Fusion Journey challenge, making a gastronomic pilgrimage from Mumbai, India’s most populous city, to the stylish Danish capital of Copenhagen. His task was to blend the contrasting culinary traditions of Denmark and India in one dish. ” border=”0″ height=”360″ class=”c6″ width=”640″ />Celebrity Indian chef Sanjeev Kapoor took up the Fusion Journey challenge, making a gastronomic pilgrimage from Mumbai, India’s most populous city, to the stylish Danish capital of Copenhagen. His task was to blend the contrasting culinary traditions of Denmark and India in one dish.
120416122825 sanjeev kapoor 10 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenMist shrouds the 17th-century spires of Copenhagen Harbor, a striking contrast to the sweltering streets of Mumbai.
120416123131 sanjeev kapoor 11 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenHidden within a renovated warehouse, and overlooking the old port, is the two Michelin-starred Noma restaurant. The exterior’s crisp, clean lines reflect the philosophy of its head chef, Rene Redzepi, who has elevated the simplicity of Nordic cuisine to new gastronomic heights.
120412031248 copenhagen sanjeev kapoor 2 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenRedzepi escorted Kapoor to the outskirts of Copenhagen to see some of his favorite foraging spots. The Noma founder has helped redefine Nordic cuisine, incorporating the region’s traditional use of wild ingredients with more contemporary cooking methods.
120420041015 indian street food horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenThe “New Nordic Cuisine” as it is known, could not be more contrasting to the traditional spicy fare served up on the streets of Mumbai.
120419100715 sanjeev kapoor copenhagen food horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenBack in the city, Kapoor nibbles on a variety of freshly plucked vegetables sold at one of Copenhagen’s many street-side grocery stores.
120419100725 sanjeev kapoor copenhagen bike horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenRedzepi’s reverent attitude to nature does not just end in the kitchen. The Nordic masterchef is a keen cyclist, and opted to ferry Kapoor back to his restaurant in true Copenhagen style.
120412031640 copenhagen sanjeev kapoor 4 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenThe day’s new arrivals — squirrel and a selection of game birds — are delivered directly to Noma from the local farmlands.
120412031409 copenhagen sanjeev kapoor 3 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenRedzepi’s strict emphasis on local, seasonal food, means that Noma’s menu often includes some unlikely ingredients … such as squirrel.
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But Noma isn’t just about going back to basics — some of the larder ingredients read more like a list of lab supplies.

120416113855 sanjeev kapoor 8 horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenBack in the kitchen, Redzip shows Kapoor how to prepare a simple dish in the Noma style, using only local ingredients.
120416124128 sanjeev kapoor noma horizontal gallery Indian master chef in CopenhagenThe result is a raw salad from the foraged vegetables the duo picked up earlier in the day, all assembled on the plate with a painterly flourish.
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Readers' travel tips: the best of coastal France

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 Readers' travel tips: the best of coastal France

Secluded spots on the Mediterranean coast and car-free islands in Brittany – Been there readers have some top tips on the best places to stay on the coast in France

Add a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera

WINNING TIP: Bouzigues, Languedoc-Roussillon

Bouzigues, half an hour west of Montpellier, offers a real taste of the seaside, French-style, with gorgeous oysters and sea urchins (oursins) plucked from the lagoon. At Chez La Tchèpe (+33 4 6778 3319) on the seafront, you pick your shellfish at the counter and it is cooked and delivered to your table with, say, a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet. The area around is a wildfowl paradise, with flamingo-intensive lagoons within easy walking distance.
bouzigues.fr
Chris and Polly

Pays de la Loire

Jardin du Vent, Notre-Dame-de-Monts
We spent two glorious holidays in this small resort with its attractive beach. A short drive north from the more crowded Vendée resorts, Notre-Dame-de-Monts is a great base for a family beach holiday. At the charming “wind museum” in the village, our children loved playing with the interactive wind-powered sculptures and making kites in the workshop.
notre-dame-de-monts.fr/jardin-du-vent.html, adult €4, child €2.20
Blenheim71

Les Sables d’Olonne
This resort south of the Loire has a 12km stretch of golden sand. The vast expanse of sea, sky and sand has inspired many an artist. It’s a great place for swimming, surfing and sailing (the Vendée Globe yacht race starts and ends here). Visit the seashell museum and the museum of contemporary art and local traditions. The covered market has an array of attractively arranged fresh fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. Salt marshes a few miles out of town can be toured by boat.
visitlessablesdolonne.co.uk
Goforth12

Nord-Pas-de-Calais

Nausicaá, Boulogne-sur-Mer
Great venue for pre-ferry or tunnel activity, perched on the seafront at Boulogne. The Nausicaá is a large immersive experience that communicates man’s relationship with the sea. It has more than just tanks of fish – the theatres and films take you on a journey of understanding.
nausicaa.fr, adult €17.95, child (3-12) €11.70
lilstevey

Brittany

Île-de-Bréhat
At only 318 hectares, car-free Île de Bréhat is actually an archipelago of two main islands and pink granite islets. Idle away the days by kayaking in the ebb and flow seascape, or walk the island’s bird rich coves and coastal paths. In spring, while Bréhatins enjoy some pre-season peace, its Mediterranean flowers come into celebratory bloom. Marc Chagall visited in 1924 and painted “La fenêtre sur l’Ile de Bréhat”.
LizCleere

Roscoff and Trébeurden
For many years we caught the Plymouth to Roscoff ferry and drove rapidly south. Slowly, the wealth of inlets, beaches and resorts scattered around the huge and diverse Brittany coastline earned our admiration. Now, we drive off the ferry and enjoy instant relaxation, because the scenic rock-strewn coastline that wraps around the French coastal towns of Roscoff and Trébeurden has captured our hearts.
Tammy Cody-Boutcher

Presqu’île de Crozon
Crozon is a peninsula with three prongs at the end: one facing Brest, one the Atlantic, and the third towards the south. Rocky headlands, some with forts (from the bronze age to the second world war), alternate with unspoilt sandy beaches, and the fishing ports of Le Fret, Camaret and Morgat. It’s rather like western Pembrokeshire, but with a French ambience and different history. Ideal for family holidays away from big resorts. It projects out into the Baie de Douarnenez, south of Brest.
DenisBates

Aquitaine

Parc Ornithologique du Teich, Arcachon
Due west of Bordeaux lies the jewel that is the Bassin d’Arcachon. From chic Cap Ferret at its most northern edge, you can travel past houses on stilts, stopping at some of the finest fish restaurants on the planet, and round to the spectacular Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, offering a challenge to kids of any age. The diamond of the Bassin d’Arcachon was, for us, the Parc Ornithologique du Teich. As seasoned birdwatchers, we were stunned by the variety of environments there, from salt marshes to freshwater habitats. With 20 hides, and up to 280 species of birds to spot, this place is twitchers’ heaven.
parc-ornithologique-du-teich.com, adult €7.60, child (5-14) €5.40
Logicus

Hossegor and Capbreton
Hossegor is a wonderful buzzing French seaside town, with Capbreton just down the coast within cycling distance – it has a stunning harbour full of extravagant yachts but it’s a perfect place to watch the world go by with a cocktail. It’s a great place to camp too.
camping-du-lac.fr, pitch for two people from €44
nicolasmith84

Cap De L’Homy, Lit-et-Mixe
I’ve spent much of my life travelling around Europe in a VW Campervan, and the only place I wish I had never left was this wonderful campsite south of Bordeaux. It’s a prime location for surfers, foodies and hikers. The weather is beautiful throughout the summer, and you’re allowed barbecues. Best of all, the beach is only a minute’s walk away, and, thanks to the dunes, you don’t hear anything from the (rather tame) beach parties at night. Fresh fish is served at the local restaurants at a very reasonable price.
camping-cap.com, pitch for two people from €13 a night
KaySmythe

Corsica

Calvi to L’Ile-Rousse
The 24km of coast between Calvi and L’Ile-Rousse is full of wonders: stunning views of fine sandy beaches and turquoise sea on one side, and of small mountain villages on the other side. Try the Corsican specialities served in most restaurants and enjoy the delicious ice cream while watching Corsican men play pétanque in the main square at Ile-Rousse. Visit the Citadel (Calvi), cycle up the nearby mountains or simply relax on heavenly Bodri beach. Sea, sun and fun guaranteed.
Christel73

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Villefranche-sur-Mer
This popular, pebbly town is great for families. We happily let our teenagers wander off to the market square to snack on crêpes: the place is so contained and feels so friendly, and the views in every direction are amazing. Summer evenings can be magical, with fancy but affordable restaurants, an open-air cinema in the citadel, and firework displays that are applauded by a chorus of horns from cars and ships.
villefranche-sur-mer.fr/tourism
dangnabbit

Marseille
From the vibrant, chilled-out port of Marseille, take a navette (boat shuttle, €2.50 for a 40-minute journey) to Pointe Rouge, a sa
ndy beach with great views across the harbour. Then stroll along the coastal path towards Callelongue, stopping off at whichever calanque (rocky cove) takes your fancy, for a swim in the turquoise waters.
marseille-tourisme.com/en/marseille-calanques-walks
Ellabella3011

Le Quillé ice cream parlour, Miramas le Vieux
For a beach and an ice cream with a difference, try the fishing village of Carry-le-Rouet, 20 miles from Marseille. Spend a day on the beach, nestled at the bottom of burnt-orange cliffs, with pine trees providing shade. Afterwards, head for the hilltop town of Miramas le Vieux and the amazing Le Quillé ice cream parlour, on place du Château, to enjoy the warmth, views and flavours of Provence.
SuziWrites

Trying real bouillabaisse, Marseille
This authentic fish stew is served with aïoli – succulent pieces of fish in a tasty broth with little pieces of crusty bread topped with a rich garlic mayonnaise. Try eating at the local fisherman’s cafe rather than the tourist restaurants on the quay. It’s cheaper, the taste is much more authentic and the locals are friendly and talkative. The portions are huge, too!
Jelee58

Bay of Agay
To enjoy the Côte d’Azur without crowds, tourist-trap beaches or bling, head to Agay, 40km east of Fréjus/St Raphaël on the D559. The town sits on the bay, with turquoise shallows and viridian pines complementing the gold-red volcanic rock of the last range of the Massif de l’Estérel.

The Vallée du Paradis campsite, in a quiet location at the back of the town, bordering the river Agay, is conducive to chilling out in the evenings with a glass of rosé. Agay has a year-round temperate climate, so you can enjoy all its attributes early in the season.
camping-vallee-du-paradis.fr, from €120 f0r two nights in a four-person tent
fizzfieldgrass

Photography and people watching, Nice
You can’t help but be aware of the warmth and safety of Nice, a city where you can wander around at night, thrilling to the festival atmosphere of street musicians and street theatre in Place Rossetti. Nice can seem like an expensive city, but there is plenty to see and do for free. There is joy to be found here in every corner: relaxing in Jardin Botanique on a tree-shaded park bench; or people-watching from one of the many authentic cafes in true Gallic style.
alastairpert

Train from St-Raphaël to Ventimiglia
By “stopper” (slow) train – the route hugs the coast with brilliant views of the sea and cliffs, crossing streams on narrow viaducts and giving a new perspective on the coastal towns and villages. The train chugs slowly – often the doors are wedged open to let in some air. Don’t travel on a Friday, though: it’s market day in Ventimiglia and trains are always crowded.
raileurope.co.uk, singles from £15
JR Turner

Èze
This small town will make you feel like you’re on the set of an old Disney movie. Only 12km from Nice, Èze is 427m above sea level and offers panoramic views of the Riviera. The medieval village is car-free and charming, with small alleys and beautiful flowers everywhere. There is easy access to Nice by bus.
SarahLafer

Le Rhul, Marseille
Le Rhul is a three-star hotel on a bend off Corniche Kennedy and probably has one of the best views of any three-star hotel in the world. The rooms also have a lot of character. Some of the best photos I took while travelling through the south of France were from my tiny balcony at this hotel.
lerhul.fr, doubles from €100
offsideflag

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Like Glasto … with hippos: Kenya's Rift Valley Music Festival

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 Like Glasto ... with hippos: Kenya's Rift Valley Music Festival

It’s rare to combine a festival and a safari, but at Kenya‘s new Great Rift Valley festival the audience are not the only party animals

In a leafy enclosure on the shore of Kenya‘s sprawling Lake Naivasha, deep in the Great Rift Valley, is the Fisherman’s Camp, one of many low-key campsites in this East African backpacker hotspot. Come September, though, it is anything but low-key, as it hosts the Rift Valley Festival: a new not-for-profit international music festival – Glastonbury-meets-safari camp.

Started in 2010 by softly spoken British brothers Ivan and Sean Ross – whose family own the campsite – the festival, billed as a “musical experience in the cradle of mankind”, brings together east African and international artists. All proceeds (including sponsorship from Virgin Atlantic) go towards local grassroots education, sanitation and environmental projects. Around 2,000 people – a mix of Kenyans and international travellers – attended in 2010, but by last year the small word-of-mouth gathering had become a 5,000-capacity celebration.

The Rift Valley Festival is definitely off the beaten track. And the drive there (it takes about an hour-and-a-half from Nairobi, depending on the city’s dreadful traffic) was a very different experience from battling queues in muddy Somerset.

From the city, I passed through the luscious tea and coffee plantations of the Kiambu and Limuru areas, and came to the vast, spectacular plains and mountain ranges of the Great Rift Valley. Eagles soared overhead and I saw wide-backed, stern-looking baboons crouching by the side of the road. I stopped frequently, to take photos of the mountains and haggle for masks and jewellery.

I almost missed the turning for the Fisherman’s Camp, just beyond a run of flower farms in Naivasha. The site is a big grassy plain surrounded by tall trees and there’s just one stage, right in the middle. There are no food tents, just one central, very well-stocked bar/restaurant over two levels, which served the best chapatis I ate on my whole Kenya trip. And I ate a lot.

It was daytime, and the festival seemed fairly sedate. Nairobi city workers and their families began spreading out picnics on the grass, while local Masai tribesmen, resplendent in their red shuka wraps, patrolled the site – they had been employed by the festival to act as security, keeping an eye on things and helping people pitch their tents.

The camping area is exactly as you’d expect: various shades of green two-man tents, remnants of camp fires and slightly dodgy toilets. The loos do flush, though, which is better than many British festivals. Once it got dark – which happens quite early in these parts, around 6pm – the party atmosphere started to build. The music started at around the same time and the crowd were up and dancing as soon as it began.

The diverse music programme covers local and international artists, bringing together traditional African roots and global music influenced by African beats. Last year, one highlight was Kenyan musician and Peter Gabriel favourite Ayub Ogada, whose plaintive vocals and nyatiti (a lyre-like string instrument) have been used extensively in film, most notably in The Constant Gardener. When he performed, the energetic crowd stood perfectly still. Osogo Winyo, another Kenyan, had the opposite effect: his beat-heavy, harmonica-led songs had them dancing like crazy.

From the western world, there were brilliant sets from DJ Yoda and one of Gorillaz – the one that isn’t Damon Albarn, although I am sure this festival would be his kind of thing.

If you’re a fan of afrobeat music, you will love this event. Many acts waived usually large fees to appear and, despite technical glitches, power cuts and deafening thunderstorms that put acts scheduled for 9pm back to 2am, the atmosphere after dark each evening (somewhat compounded by generous quantities of Tusker beer) was, in typical African fashion, one of irrepressible fun.

Big smoky barbecues blazed all night, upturned beer crates became makeshift bars to lubricate the happy, dancing crowds, and the music was only occasionally interrupted by a bowel-rumbling groan from beyond the electric fence put up at night to keep out the hippos that live in the lake.

The setting, beside Lake Naivasha adds a lot. It was hard to grasp the size of the lake while standing on the banks, but at 139 square km, it’s so big it can be seen from space. A short distance away from the tents was a wobbly jetty over the latte-coloured water, from which festival-goers could take boat trips to observe the hippos. Some were difficult to see, hiding beneath the surface with only their ears and nostrils exposed, but they reared up when they heard the boat coming. I squealed, loudly, and was roundly told off.

When you’re in the Rift Valley, you don’t necessarily want to spend your days in festival grounds. Several people who were on safari and staying in fancy lodges (such as the gorgeous, giraffe-surrounded Mara Simba Lodge, where, if you ask nicely, they’ll let you use the pool) just came down to listen to the music in the evenings after an afternoon’s lion watching.

If the festival’s growth over the past two years is anything to go by, this year’s event will be even bigger: acts confirmed so far for 2012 include JStar, Frankie Francis and the Owiny Sigoma Band. But the Rift Valley Festival already feels big and special. It is quite unlike anything I have ever experienced – a combination of proper festival atmosphere and safari spirit. Forget Glasto: I’ll take hippos over hippies any day.

• The 2012 Rift Valley Festival runs 31 August-2 September. Tickets are not yet on sale but check riftvalleyfestival.co.uk for details. The trip was provided by Virgin Holidays (virginholidays.co.uk), which has a four-night Masai Mara Safari including two nights at Mara Simba Lodge (marasimba.com) from £1,279, including flights from Heathrow, game drives and transfers. A cheaper option is to camp at the festival, or hire a cottage at the Fisherman’s Camp (fishermanscamp.com), from about £13 a night. Eleanor flew from London to Nairobi with Virgin (virgin-atlantic.com), which has return flights around the festival dates from £605. For more information see magicalkenya.com

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Where's best for a family ski holiday?

Where’s best for a family ski holiday?

What better way to get away from the dullness of everyday life than by hitting the slopes on a family ski holiday and spending time with each other in a fun packed setting. A lot of of Europe‘s top ski schools will welcome children from the age of three years old, which means that there’s no reason why the whole family can’t get involved with the enjoyment on the slopes.

Qualified instructors who are experienced in teaching a group of children will make sure that kids learn to ski in an enjoyable and safe setting. Many ski schools will also offer skiing kindergartens which encourage young children to enjoy the snow and play under the watchful eye of specially trained instructors.

As with any well planned trip, before booking your family ski holiday you’ll need to consider a few points when picking your chosen resort:

Does the resort offer family friendly accommodation?
Does the ski area possess child friendly pistes?
What sort of reputation do the local ski schools and childcare facilities have?
Is the entire family going to be kept entertained? What variety of activities are on offer in the ski resort?
Taking into account flight and transfer time from the airport to your accommodation, how long is it going to take to get to your end destination? Will your kids become agitated?
Meal times for young children and babies can often be irregular. If you’re staying in catered accommodation, how versatile are the meal times for youngsters?
How far are the childcare facilities from the slopes? Analyse the piste map and work out how feasible it will be to ski back to your child’s nursery quickly if they are restless.

We’ve put together a short guide on some of the best places to take your family ski holiday:

Alpe d’Huez, France

Visitors to Alpe d’Huez will find over 200km of pistes to discover, in fact, the resort is positioned within the fifth biggest ski area in France. Holidaymakers will find a wealth of amenities within the ski resort, making it a top choice of destination for anyone seeking a family ski holiday. The leisure centre provides a great range of activities, from tennis to swimming, there is also bowling and dog sledding. The Les Intrepides Creche takes care of children from three months up to four years of age and the resort’s ski schools offer an array of options such as lessons, games and meals for youngsters of all ages.

Flaine, France

Promising a fantastic snow record, Flaine is a highly child friendly resort which is also traffic-free. Many of the properties within this purpose-built resort are ski in ski out, and you’ll never be more than a few moments from the nearest ski lift. Owing to its excellent board park, Flaine is a long time favourite with snowboarders.

Kids as young as two and a half years old are welcome at the resort’s two major ski schools, so there’s no reason why the whole family can’t take part in the action on the piste. Visitors will find a wide array of activites to keep the whole family well entertained, such activities include bowling, dog sledding, ice skating, the cinema and climbing.

Morzine, France

Situated right in the centre of the world famous Portes du Soleil ski area along with other top resorts Les Gets and Avoriaz, Morzine is packed full of Savoyarde appeal and offers skiers of all capabilities a fantastic test. There is a great deal here to keep the whole family amused, from ice skating and sledding to swimming and the cinema. Children as young as three months old are well catered for in Morzine and it’s details like this which are the reason for its accreditation as a Famille Plus Montagne resort. The Piou-Piou’s club offers a large variety of activities for children, plus skiing lessons in the safe snow garden.

Opera star finds South African soul

120403040020 durban thomas hampson opera horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulThomas Hampson, otherwise known as “America’s Baritone,” is seen here performing at the Waldolf Astoria in New York City. Having sung in more than 70 opera roles over a career that began in the early 1980s, Hampson is today regarded as one of the world’s foremost and prodigious operatic talents.
120403040456 durban thomas hampson award vertical gallery Opera star finds South African soul

Hampson has won a litany of awards, including multiple Grammys, two Edison Prizes and the coveted Grand Prix de Disque — the highest award for musical recordings in France. Here he is pictured clasping the award for “singer of the year” at the 2011 ECHO Klassik awards in Berlin.

120403034937 durban thomas hampson dress horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulWhile admired for his knowledge of Western classic music and its traditions, Hampson told CNN that he is also a great believer in experimentation and adaption. He is pictured here in a modern rendition on Mozart’s “Don Giovanni.”
120403035718 durban black mambazo performance horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulThe classically trained singer would need all the versatility he could muster during his “Fusion Journey” to Durban, where he teamed-up with famed South-African singers Ladysmith Black Mambazo — pictured here during a performance in December 2008.
120403035455 durban black mambazo paul simon horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulFounded by Joseph Shabalala (left) in 1960, Mambazo shot onto the world stage in 1986, when they collaborated with American singer-songwriter Paul Simon (center) on the hugely successful “Graceland” album. Here, the two are seen performing together at the Library Of Congress Gershwin Prize For Popular Song Gala in Washington, 2007.
120403054223 durban interior wall horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulBefore they began collaborating musically, Mambazo granted Hampson a tour of the small township where Shabalala was born and raised. Here, Shabalala points to the back wall of his old garage where the band would rehearse, and on which are inscribed the words: “My soul gives thanks to the Lord.”
120403053631 durban children playing horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulLocal kids from the Claremont township look on intrigued. Before enjoying international success, the young band would perform their distinctive brand of traditional Zulu song at nearby singing competitions.
120404122751 durban zulu dance class horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulContinuing his tour of the region, Mambazo took Hampson to see a group of young traditional Zulu dancers performing at a bar in Durban.
120404123426 durban zulu ceremony horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulAt the Phezulu Cultural Park, on the outskirts of Durban, Hampson witnessed the performance of a Zulu marriage ritual, replete with full traditional dress and dancing.
120404123939 durban rehearsal hampson horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulBack at Joseph Shabalala’s current home in the Durban suburb of Pinetown, Hampson and Ladysmith Black Mambazo begin rehearsing their new creation, combining elements of their contrasting musical traditions to create something new.
120404014211 durban fusion journey performance horizontal gallery Opera star finds South African soulAs the day draws to a close, and with the Valley of a Thousand Hills spreading out behind them, the group perform their fusion creation.
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From Zurich to Zululand
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